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Master Gardener Emma Hartmann mixes composting materials in a wooden bin with double openings. Compost piles can be freestanding but anything handy can become a compost enclosure, including cinder blocks, chicken or fence wire, even wooden pallets. |
March 31, 2005 Growing Small Fruits
May 5, 2005 Transplanting annuals
May 19, 2005 Tent Caterpillars
June 2, 2005 Tye River Kindergarden
July 14, 2005 Blueberries or Huckleberries?
July 28, 2005 Myths about Poison Ivy
August 25, 2005 Ailanthus Trees
September 8, 2005 White Clover
September 22, 2005 Cold Frames
October 6, 2005 Gardening on the Frontier
October 10, 2005 Gardening Books
October 27, 2005 Leaves of Autumn
November 3, 2005 Forcing Bulbs
December 1, 2005 Christmas Trees
December 15, 2005 Traditional Fresh Greens
December 29, 2005 New Year's Resolutions
By Rosemary Connelly
If there’s a stack of marked seed and plant catalogs near your chair and you’ve been stalking around outside planning beds and borders, now’s the time to pause for a reality check and a vital question. How’s your soil this year?
Our heavy Nelson County clay is full of good nutrients for growing plants, but its dense texture makes it hard for them to establish good roots. The best thing you can do to improve your soil is to add compost and making it yourself is remarkably easy.
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Master Gardener Emma Hartmann mixes composting materials in a wooden bin with double openings. Compost piles can be freestanding but anything handy can become a compost enclosure, including cinder blocks, chicken or fence wire, even wooden pallets. |
Compost is decayed organic matter that acts as both a soil conditioner and a natural fertilizer. It’s produced by micro-organisms such as bacteria, fungi and worms that feed on dead leaves and plant materials. Compost occurs naturally in the woods. It can easily occur in our gardens too if we take time to collect dead leaves, plant clippings and vegetable peelings and toss them into a corner of the yard. A year later and you’ll find “black gold” in that corner.
You can easily speed up the composting process by providing the micro-organisms with an environment that encourages their work. Like all living things, they need food, air and water. Food comes from plant material. Some material, like dead leaves, is high in carbon and provides energy for the micro-organisms; other material, like green grass clippings, is high in nitrogen and is needed for growth and reproduction. It’s best to use a balanced mix of both green and brown materials for composting.
Start your pile with a layer of brush at the bottom, so air can circulate under the mixture. Oxygen must be available for the organisms to breathe, so don’t make the pile too heavy.
You’ll want to use a pitchfork to mix and aerate the material occasionally. A good size pile is about four feet across and no more than four feet high. And keep the pile damp. It helps if the top of the pile dips in toward the center so rain water isn’t lost.
As the micro-organisms do their work they generate heat, and the pile may warm up to 150 degrees F. This is both normal and desirable because the heat will kill weed seeds. When composting is complete, the pile will cool down and you will have valuable dark, crumbly material to add to your clay soil. During the warm months compost can be ready to use in about four months.
With a little bit of effort you can harvest your own soil enhancer this year, right in your own back yard.
For more information on composting or other gardening questions, please call the Nelson County Master Gardeners Help Line at the Virginia Cooperative Extension Office. 263–4035.
by Lynne Carson
Just think of it…strawberry shortcake, blueberry muffins, grape jelly and blackberry jam… some of the wonderful culinary delights of spring and summer in Virginia. But don’t just dream about creating delicious desserts and jams from these delectable small fruits; they can thrive in your backyard garden not far from your kitchen.
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Master Gardeners Lynne and Chuck Carson of Nellysford check their blueberry bushes for swelling buds. Some varieties of blueberry will bear fruit the second year after planting. When a bush reaches full production in about six years, it will yield four to six quarts of berries. |
Small fruits such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and grapes are ideal for the home garden and there is something for every size lot. Brambles, grapes and blueberries can be planted to grow into a tall hedge or can be trellised to define a property line or to provide privacy. Strawberries can be incorporated into landscape designs as a border for flower beds or they can serve as an attractive ground cover. Strawberries can be grown in barrels or even in five-level square-sided wooden pyramids if space is very limited.
Growing small fruits is easy, interesting and rewarding. Select a spot for small fruit plantings that is close to your home, in an area of full sun. The site should be free from frost pockets and exposure to strong prevailing winds. Small fruits thrive best in fertile, sandy loam soil which is rich in organic matter, but they will give good returns in average garden soil also.
Strawberries, the most widely grown small fruit in the United States, are the earliest of the small fruits to ripen in the spring. Strawberries adapt to a wide range of soil and climatic conditions and are well-suited to the home garden in areas where supplemental watering is readily available. Be sure to select strawberry plants which are dependable varieties for our growing area and which offer few disease and insect problems. Some strawberry varieties, such as Earliglow, ripen quickly while others, such as Sure Crop and Allstar, bear later in the season. Plants are generally sold as one–year-old dormant nursery stock and should be planted in early spring about three to four weeks before the average date of the last frost. The average last frost date for Nelson County is the first week in May, so strawberries should be in the ground in early April.
The Nelson County Master Gardener’s Small Fruit Plant Sale and Seminar on Saturday, April 2 at the Demonstration Gardens of Oak Ridge Estate is perfectly timed for both planting schedules and learning more about the challenges and delights of growing your own small fruits. Raspberries, blueberries, elderberries, grapes, blackberries, gooseberries and everyone’s favorites – fragraria fragraria – strawberries, will be for sale at moderate prices For details, fees and registration information, please call the Virginia Cooperative Extension Office at 263-4035.
If you’ve never grown small fruits, strawberries are the perfect way to begin. The returns are immediate and delicious. Bring out the bowl for fresh berry snacking – or the cookbook for Glazed Fresh Strawberry Tarts.
By Rosemary Connelly
It took me a while to understand why some azaleas in my yard flourished and some mysteriously sickened and died. Eventually I realized that the sick ones were planted under a black walnut tree.
The Black Walnut (juglans nigra) is a Virginia native. Growing up to 100 feet tall, it is prized for its hardwood that is used for making furniture and gunstocks. Its nuts are a good source of protein, and it is also a beautiful shade tree. Gardeners, however, have problems growing certain plants under it.
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Black Walnuts trees leaf out later than other trees in the spring and drop their leaves early in the fall. They are elegant shade trees. |
Black walnuts exude a chemical called juglone that can interfere with the growth of other plants. This phenomenon, known as “allelopathy”, is not uncommon. English walnuts, hickories and pecans also produce juglone, but in smaller amounts. Pliny, writing in AD 77, noted the toxic effect of black walnuts on other plants.
All parts of the black walnut tree contain juglone, particularly the buds, nuts and roots. The soil directly under the tree is contaminated by fallen leaves and nuts. Roots, which can spread far beyond the canopy of the tree, are particularly toxic. Even after the tree has been removed, decaying roots still release juglone.
The plants that have died under my black walnut include not only azaleas, but also rhododendrons, nandina, foam flower, and a white birch. Other plants that are sensitive to juglone include vegetables such as tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and eggplant.
If your vegetable garden must be near a black walnut tree, you can try using raised beds with imported soil. Just be sure to keep the beds clear of all fallen leaves and nuts.
Juglone damage is particularly apparent in soil that is compacted and has poor drainage. Researchers have found that the bacteria in organic matter actually feed on the juglone and reduce its effect. Therefore, to minimize juglone damage rake up all debis under the tree and enrich the soil with plenty of compost.
By trial and error I have found several plants that do grow under my black walnut. Right now daffodils, hellebores, and grape hyacinths are flourishing. Later the area will be carpeted with coral bells, celandine poppies and black-eyed susans. Other plants that tolerate juglone include boxwoods, rose of sharon, viburnums, daphne, and lawn grasses.
If you would like a more detailed list of plants to grow under black walnuts, call the Master Gardener Help Line at the Extension Office, 263-4035. Additional information is also available at www.ext.vt.edu when you search "black walnut trees".
In the meantime, did you know that current research is being conducted into landscape plants that are allelopathic to weeds?
By Rosemary Connelly
Spring! Time to plant annuals, yes? Yes, but keep an eye on the weather forecast!
The average last frost date for Nelson County is the end of April. But remember that devastating frost of May 22, 2002? Temperatures at this time of year can still be unpredictable and it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Many warm season vegetables, such as tomatoes and peppers, will not start growing well until the soil has warmed up. So there is no advantage to planting them early.
When shopping for annuals, look for good leaf color, vigor, and well developed root systems. Bypass yellow, woody specimens. Tomato plants should have straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil, four to six young true leaves, and no blossoms or fruit. Seedlings that have already set fruit at transplanting time will be overtaken in plant development and total yield by those without fruit at transplanting time.
If your plants came from a greenhouse, or if you have raised them yourself from seed, they need a period of “hardening off” before they can be transplanted. “Hardening off” means acclimatizing the plants to the outdoors. Wind, more than sun, is a problem for tender young plants. For the first two or three days set them outside for just a few hours in a shady, sheltered spot. Gradually move them to a sunnier place and be careful to keep them well watered.
The best time to transplant is on a cloudy, calm day without sun or wind. If you plant them in the late afternoon, they can have the night hours to start adjusting to their new situation.
Tomatoes can grow roots all along the stem. So plant tomatoes as deeply as you can, certainly up to the first true leaves. If the plants come in peat pots, be sure to bury the whole pot or else tear off the part of the pot above the soil line. If the rim stays above ground, it will wick moisture away from the roots.
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Plastic jugs can protect young plants from late frosts. This plastic collar also protects the tomato plant from cut worms and provides a reservoir for watering. |
The amount of fruit will depend on whether you prune the plants. Staked and pruned tomatoes will grow fewer, but larger fruits than caged or unsupported plants.
If an unexpected frost is forecast, what can you do about it? First, water your plants well. Wet soil will freeze more slowly than dry soil. Then you can cover plants with “row covers”, a light fabric used to protect plants from insects. Or make paper hats from newspaper to cover individual plants. Plastic jugs, with the bottoms cut out, make good “hot caps”. If you cut around the middle of the jug, leaving an inch or so as a hinge, you have a mini greenhouse that can be opened and shut, depending on the weather conditions. (see photo).
For answers to your gardening questions, call the Master Gardeners at the Virginia Cooperative Extension Office, 263-4035, or visit them at the Nellysford Farmers Market, starting Saturday, May 7, 8:00 a.m. to noon.
By Bunyan Fortune
This spring Mother Nature in all her glory gave us an exceptional display of our native dogwood and redbud – then tossed in the tent caterpillar for good measure. Aha, the tent caterpillar with its silky white webs. Our challenge is with two types – the eastern tent caterpillar and the forest tent caterpillar.
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A eastern tent caterpillar is visible in its multilayered web constructed in the fork of a tree branch. The caterpillars grow to approximately two inches in length.(Photo submitted, but not printed) |
The eastern tent caterpillar makes its nest in the forks of branches, mostly in wild cherry trees, but it will settle for ornamental apple, cherry, crabapple, peach or plum trees. Also affected are ash, birch, maple, oak, poplar and willow trees.
Few people have seen the adult caterpillar moth. They are reddish brown with two defined white bands on their forewings. The wing span is approximately 1” to 2 ½”. Caterpillars are black with a single white stripe down their backs. Their sides are dappled with black and blue spots bordered with reddish and yellowish wavy lines.
This caterpillar is often confused with the gypsy moth caterpillar which looks similar. However, the gypsy moth caterpillar has five pairs of blue tubercles and six pairs of red tubercles on its back. Unlike the tent caterpillar, it does not spin a multilayered web.
The female tent caterpillar moth deposits a 100 to 300 egg mass encircling tree limbs or small tree trunks. In the process, a sticky substance called spumaline is excreted sealing the eggs to the host and also forming a hard protective cover over the egg mass.
Eggs or larvae hatch the following spring at leafing time. The larvae feed on leaves and form small webs which are enlarged as they grow. These tents serve as a haven at night and during inclement weather. Larvae leave the web during the day to feed on adjoining leaves. Group feeding is the norm and is easily recognized by the concentrated defoliation of the host. Larvae will feed for six to eight weeks until fully grown.
The larva will then leave the nest and seek a suitable place to pupate. (This is the period when they are seen everywhere….in the grass, on the road, sidewalks, and even sides of houses.) Once it finds a suitable spot, under leaves, under tree bark or in a crack, it will enclose itself in a silken cocoon. In approximately 20 – 25 days, the adult moth emerges and seeks a mate.
Annual control should begin in the late fall. Check suspected trees for egg masses during the winter and prune them out. Webs may be pruned out in early spring when first noticed. If eggs have hatched, wait until evening when caterpillars have returned to the nest. Then, pull the web down and discard into the trash.
If the web is out of reach, remove it with a long pole with nails in the end to snag the tent. Webs can be destroyed with a high pressure water hose (tents are water-resistant and normal water pressure is generally not efficient). Burning is hazardous and not recommended.
Tent caterpillar predators are numerous and include birds, rodents, fish and other insects. Even if trees have been defoliated, almost all will eventually form new leaves.
For additional information, or questions, call the Nelson County Extension Office at (434) 263-4035.
By Rosemary Connelly
Some of Nelson’s youngest students recently helped to “rewrite the book” on basic gardening during a learning project that combined high technology and old-fashioned dirty hands skills.
Eighty-three kindergarten students at Tye River Elementary School and six trained master gardener volunteers worked together this spring on a variety of projects that illustrated how plants grow.
In the “Bean Babies Growing Up” project, each child put a lima bean in a plastic bag with a wet paper towel. The children were amazed to see the beans split and grow roots and leaves.
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Kindergarten students at Tye River Elementary School recently learned basic botany with lots of friends – the “Hairy Paper Cup People.” Carefully planted and watered grass seed gave “Hairy” his bright green mane. Six Nelson County master gardeners created this project as part of an unusual mini-course for 83 students. |
In the “Hairy Paper Cup People” project they drew faces on Styrofoam cups and then filled the cups with soil and planted grass seeds. With the addition of water and sunlight the cups soon started to sprout green hair!
To demonstrate that plants need water and sun and soil to grow well, the master gardeners set up an experiment in which wildflower seeds were planted in four cups. The first cup had soil and sun, but it was given no water. The second had soil and water but no sun (It was shut in a closet). The third had water and sun, but no soil. The fourth had all three critical elements—soil, water, and sun. The wildflowers in the fourth cup prospered!
The children drew graphs to show the differences in plant sizes. And finally they listened to a story about frog and toad planting a garden. All of these activities were carefully designed to meet the kindergarten SOLs not only for science, but also math and reading.
Prior to the hands-on classes, master gardener team leader Miriam Corcoran, a computer expert, interviewed all the children, took their photos, and recorded sound bites of the children talking about their favorite activities. Master Gardeners Sharon Packett, Janet Parrish, Milly Colella, Helen Hughes and Diane Southard assisted with the classroom activities.
At the end of the three-week session, each child was presented with a colorful computer generated booklet with his or her name on the front cover. Inside was picture and their own words about their favorite things, and other photos reminding them of their scientific classroom activities.
A CD of the children’s work, including the children’s voices, was given to the Tye River principal, Mrs. Sandra McKenzie.
The master gardeners are grateful to 4-H agent Lynn Grosz for her guidance in this project. Thanks, too, go to Shady’s Place, Chen’s Chinese Food, Fisher Auto Parts, Virginia Computer Institute—The Meeting Place, and The Wintergreen Nature Foundation, for helping to underwrite the booklet printing costs.
For information about the Master Gardener program, call the Nelson County Extension Office at (434) 263-4035.
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Does he have his eye on your
hostas? The more you know about what deer like
and dislike the better your chances that your garden won’t be dinner.
(Photo submitted, but not printed) |
Many gardeners in
There are many commercial deer repellents on the market -- unpleasant
smelling liquids that are sprayed onto the plants for protection. The
results may be positive at first; however, after time and rain,
reapplication will be necessary. This is also true for the homemade
repellant made from five whole eggs, five quarts of water, a clove of garlic
and a dash of Tabasco sauce - a pungent concoction.
A new product, deer vik, has gotten good reviews
from users. It is a viscous sticky product with a scent that deters deer.
The product adheres to poles or sticks placed around the
garden and is apparently effective for three to four months. (See
www.deervik.com.) A motion sensor that sprays water when deer approach has
worked well for some people. One device called “The Scarecrow” can spray a
fan of water 45 feet when a deer triggers it.
(See www.scatmat.com/products/Scarecrow.)
Many people believe that fencing the animals out is the best way to prevent
deer damage. For vertical fencing to work it must be 8 to10 feet high.
Virginia Tech has material available on a slanted fence that can be
considerably shorter. Another type of fencing places one fence within
another using monofilament (fishing line). The optical illusion confuses
deer and keeps them outside. Of course, electrifying a fence is a sure
deterrent. To work however, it must be kept “hot” at all times.
In landscaping for deer protection you avoid plants that deer prefer, use
plants that deer don’t like and develop garden designs that discourage
deer. Some plants most favored by deer are: daylilies,
hosta, cardinal flower, hollyhocks, impatiens, phlox, roses, and
tulips. Plants that deer usually don’t eat include:
artemesia, baptisa, buddleia,
caryopteris, cleome, dahlia, digitalis, and
lavender. Vegetables and herbs that deer don’t like include: cucumber,
onions, garlic, pumpkins, rhubarb squash, mint, oregano, basil, rosemary,
and thyme. (Listings of deer likes and dislikes are available from the
Cooperative Extension Office.) Unfortunately if deer are hungry enough, they
will eat any of the above.
Garden designs can deter
deer. One strategy is to plant something not attractive to deer like
santolina or yarrow all around the perimeter of
your daylily and hosta beds. Another is to
plant deer favorites within a fenced site such as a pool or patio area, or
on a terraced, rather steep hillside.
Experiment in your individual garden space and you’ll soon learn what best protects your plants from deer. And remember that we can’t ever control all of the factors in a natural environment.
Commercial products named in this article are for
information only. Virginia Cooperative Extension does not endorse these
products and does not intend discrimination against other products which may
also be suitable. For additional information, or questions, call the Nelson
County Extension Office at 434/263-4035.
By Shirley M. Wilson & Patricia A. Bailey
If you have a traditional garden which requires constant weeding, watering and thinning it may be time to reconsider your gardening master plan. Such things as amount of space available, amount of energy needed to maintain the garden and how to get the most out of what you plant are important considerations. The raised bed technique is one method of developing and maintaining a highly productive garden.
Some advantages of raised beds are: they are appealing to the eye; they solve soil problems because you start with new soil that has been amended; they warm up early in the Spring and stay warm later into the Fall; plants can be grown closer together crowding out many weeds; they are easier to work since they are less than four feet wide; and depending on the height, you can sit down and work your garden with less back strain.
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Raised beds can be both beautiful and highly productive. |
A raised bed does best when it is enclosed within a frame. This helps keep the soil in place and can provide a sitting area for the gardener. An ideal size for the frame is three to four feet wide. This allows you easy access to the garden from both sides without having to step into the bed and compact the soil. The length of the frame depends on how much space you can devote to the garden and also the number of plants you expect to grow.
There has been concern about using pressure treated wood for framing raised beds because the wood is treated with chromated copper arsenate (CCA). The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has stated the CCA- treated wood is not harmful to humans when used to construct raised bed gardens. You decide – non- treated wood will work just as well, but may not last as long. Other options for framing are bricks, retaining wall blocks, etc.
The most important step is preparation of the soil! You want deep fertile soil, high in organic matter. If possible rotor till the top 12 inches of the soil. If the soil is too hard, you may have to dig it up by hand and mix in a good amount of compost, manure, shredded newspapers, sand or any other material that will aerate it. You want to have loose, fertile and well enriched organic soil for your plantings.
Once your soil is ready you are ready to plant! You can also do vertical planting utilizing any form of trellis. This is ideal for such plants as cucumbers, peas, pole beans, squashes, and any other vine-like fruit or vegetable. You can also plant behind or in front of your trellis crops, a plus for those plants that need shade.
Basic requirements for maintaining your garden include:
· At least 8-10 hours of sun a day for vegetables
· A nearby water source, since raised beds need more water than conventional gardens
· Fertilizer as suggested for specific plants
· Mulch to keep moisture in the soil and to reduce weed growth
· Examining the garden each day for pest control.
For more information, call the Nelson County Master Gardeners at Virginia Cooperative Extension Office (434) 263-4035.
By Bunyan Fortune
Yes, Virginia, there is a difference between blueberries and huckleberries. We will not wade through the Latin names or genera, but keep it simple.
The huckleberry is a low deciduous shrub growing in slightly dry areas. Both surfaces of the leaves have resin glands and ten seeds. The fruit is small and tends to be tangy to sweet. The seeds within the huckleberry give it a crunchy texture.
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Blueberry production is booming. According to the Washington Post, the antioxidant-rich fruit can help protect against some forms of cancer and heart disease, as well as offset some of the effects of aging.(Photo submitted, but not printed) |
Blueberries are either low or high bush plants, with the high bush types reaching to fifteen feet. The berries are larger than huckleberries with more seeds. Some varieties can yield 5 to 10 pounds of fruit in mature plants.
Domestication of huckleberries has not been realized; however, research is being conducted on a limited basis. Most berries being harvested are hand-picked in their natural habitat. They are poor shippers and have an extremely short shelf life.
Blueberries are a popular summer fruit, both on a commercial basis and as a home garden crop. They are versatile, delicious right from the garden or starring in muffins, shortcake, deep dish pies and even as a garnish for trout. They are relatively easy to grow and give a high yield. Now is the time to prepare for next year’s planting.
A plot should have loose, well-drained soil containing high organic matter. The soil should be tested for a reading of 4.5 to 5.0 pH. If it is above this, add sulphur and mix thoroughly. Test again in five months. Keep your plot free of any perennial weeds until you are ready to plant next spring. Test the soil again just before planting and amend it as necessary.
Set strong, healthy two or three-year-old plants out in early spring, as soon as the soil can be worked. Buy the plants as close to your planting date as possible. Prune any broken roots or branches prior to setting. Plant them 1 ½” to 2” deeper than they were grown in the nursery. High bush plants should be set 3 to 5 feet apart and the rows should be 4 feet apart. Adjust your rows for the equipment used in cultivation.
Mulching with damp wood shavings, sawdust or clean straw will help with weed control. Blueberries have a shallow root system so care must be exercised in cultivating and hoeing. Keep the soil moist during the growing season and enjoy your bounty.
Copies of the publication “2005-2006 Virginia Grown Guide to Pick-Your-Own Farm Products” and more detailed information on blueberries are available at the Nelson County Extension Office, 434/263-4035.
By Rosemary Connelly
Myth #1: “Leaves of three; let it be!”
Yes and No. This is good mantra to keep in mind as you walk in the woods, retrieve errant golf balls, or clear brush in your backyard.
Poison ivy (toxicodendron radicans), takes several forms: it appears as a hairy vine on trees, an erect shrub, and as a ground cover. Depending on the season, the leaves may be red or green. In each case the center leaflet is usually larger than the others and on a longer stalk. The edges of the leaves may be toothed, smooth or lobed. Their texture may be dull or shiny.
However, poison ivy is not the only three-leaved plant around. For example, immature Virginia creeper often has only three leaflets. Blackberries, wild strawberries, Jack in the Pulpit, and some young tree saplings also have just three.
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Cover up! Poison ivy contains a powerful skin irritant in leaves, stems and roots. |
All parts of the plant are toxic, not only the leaves. So in winter you still have to watch out for stems and roots.
Myth #2: I’m not allergic
Be careful! 90% of people are allergic to poison ivy. Even if you do not think you are allergic now, there is a good chance that you will develop a susceptibility to it sometime in your life.
When poison ivy is bruised, it releases a sticky toxic oil called urushiol (from the Japanese word urushi meaning “lacquer”). The plant can be bruised by being stepped on, or cut with a weed-wacker, or simply nibbled by an insect.
Some experts have said that urushiol is so toxic that 500 people could itch from the amount covering the head of a pin.
When urushiol touches human skin, it can cause an extremely itchy rash, swelling and unsightly blisters. If you think you have been exposed, you should immediately try to wash off the urushiol with soap and cool water. Avoid hot water that could open your pores and allow the toxin to penetrate more quickly.
The time between contact with the plant and appearance of a rash varies from an hour to several days. People have different sensitivities. For the first time sufferer it may take a week for the rash to start.
Myth 3: Rashes are contagious
No! Only contact with urushiol can cause the rash. Oozing blisters do not spread the rash. Other people cannot catch it from you. Unfortunately once you have the rash there is no quick remedy. See your pharmacist for over-the-counter relief, or apply cool compresses to the itchy areas. In dire cases, your doctor may prescribe something stronger.
Myth 4: Dead plants are not toxic
False! Urushiol can still be found on dead plants five years later. For this reason, don’t throw plants on your compost pile and don’t burn them. Urushiol can be carried in smoke and can irritate the lungs. The best way to dispose of dead plants is to bury them two feet deep, or bag them with household garbage.
If you are gardening in an area where you suspect there is poison ivy, wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants and heavy gloves. Latex gloves are not heavy enough. Nor is a cotton shirt if you sweat profusely. When you finish gardening, be sure to wash all clothes and gloves to remove possible contamination.
For more information about poison ivy and other gardening matters, call the Master Gardeners at the Nelson County Extension Office, (434) 263-4035.
By Virginia Schweninger
When we moved to our home in Nelson County three summers ago, we particularly loved the beautiful stand of catalpa trees, Catalpa bignonioides, that adorned our side yard. The grand-daddy of the group was so big, his branches spread to at least 60 feet, providing us with a wonderful canopy of large heart-shaped leaves. Oh how we enjoyed his shade that hot summer.
As summer progressed long skinny green bean pods appeared which eventually dried up and fell from the trees…a bit messy, but not a problem. I later learned that the Native Americans actually dried and smoked the pods, giving the tree its nickname “the Cigar Tree.”
The next spring, our catalpas gave us fragrant, showy white flowers with yellow and purple markings that looked like tiny orchids. But as summer began, I noticed defoliation in one of the trees. Then it spread . . . and I realized something serious was going on! I soon found large black and yellow striped caterpillars with black heads and little “horns.” There were hundreds of them on the undersides of the leaves, which they were devouring. As I stood beneath the trees, little brown pellets (called frass) were raining down on my head! I think I heard CHEWING!
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The catalpa tree with its unique seed pods is prized by home-owners as a shade tree with a dense crown and showy flowers. Unfortunately the catalpa sphinx moth, during its caterpillar or "worm" stage, can almost strip the tree of foliage. However, these tree pests are famed and farmed as fish bait, an oddity first reported in the 1870's. |
Horrified, I ran into the house and “Googled” catalpa worm. Lo and behold, I discovered that what was going on in our trees was actually a natural process which happens year after year.
What I hadn’t noticed that spring, were the large catalpa sphinx moths, Ceratomia catalpae. They had emerged from the ground to mate and deposit as many as 1,000 eggs on the bottom side of the leaves. The catalpa tree is their only host. The eggs hatch into young larvae, feeding voraciously and quickly skeletonizing the leaves. Fortunately, the trees will quickly produce new leaves and refoliate, but the cycle can repeat itself up to three times during a season in the south. This damage usually doesn’t kill larger trees with well-established root systems.
This may be followed by years with no defoliation at all, thanks to a parasitic wasp, Apanteles congregatus, which lays small white eggs on the caterpillars. They literally suck the juice from the caterpillars until they dry up, keeping the populations in check. Healthy caterpillars eventually drop to the ground, and enter the soil becoming small reddish pupae. The last brood of the season over-winters and reemerges to continue the cycle as moths in the spring.
Here’s some good news . . . opportunistic birds and fishermen LOVE the catalpa worms, as their powerful scent is highly attractive to fish, particularly panfish and catfish. If you’re an angler, simply pick them or shake them off of the tree, deposit them in a bottle full of cornmeal and put them in the freezer (or you can purchase them online for $2.49/dozen!). When thawed, they spring to back to life, ready for the hook.
If you prefer chemical control, insecticidal soaps and products containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) may be effective on small caterpillars, but may not be practical for use on large trees. Contact the Nelson County Extension Office at (434) 263-4035 for Publication 456-017, (Pest Management Guide) or further information.
by Bunyan Fortune
The Tree-of-Heaven (Ailanthus altissima), also known as Chinese Sumac, stink weed and Paradise Tree, has become a highly invasive tree impacting many areas in Nelson County. It is seen in fields, along fence-rows, on the edges of woods, and following logging operations. The foliage is similar in appearance to walnut and sumac, but it is not related to these trees.
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Once widely planted as an ornamental and shade tree, the lush Tree-of-Heaven has become a devilish nuisance, too easily spread and very hard to eliminate. |
Native to the warm
regions of
The ailanthus is fast growing and can reach 80 feet, however it is short-lived and often succumbs to damage from ice and wind. Its leaf is long and compounded, with smooth leaflets, except those close to its base. Each tree bears flowers of one sex. The female trees produce tiny yellow blossoms and lack the strong, unpleasant odor of the male flowers and crushed foliage. The ailanthus wood is soft and grainy and has no commercial value except as fast-burning firewood.
Ecologically, it invades disturbed areas, producing up to 350,000 seeds per year while its fast growing root system sends up a large number of sprouts. It also emits toxins which choke out native plants. The roots can also invade sewer systems and foundations and it is no longer used for planting as a street tree.
A combination of manual and mechanical controls is required in most instances to eliminate this plant. Young seedlings are easy to pull or dig out, but take care to get the entire root. Any fragment left can re-sprout. Root suckering will be difficult, as the entire root needs to be removed. Larger plants should be cut at least twice during the year, early and again late in the season. This may not kill the plant, but will prevent the fall seeding. Mowing or continuous cutting will put a strain on the plant and may eventually kill it.
Removal by cutting is best done in June or July when food reserves are the lowest. Extensive sprouting or suckering can be expected. Prompt removal is required as sucker growth promotes stump enlargement.
Several herbicides, mixtures and appropriate applications can be used alone and in conjunction with cutting to help control Tree-of-Heaven.
By Rosemary Connelly
What is a weed? A plant in the wrong place? One man’s weed may be another man’s source of nitrogen. Take white clover for example.
White
clover (Trifolium
repens) originated in the Mediterranean region and was spread
throughout
White
clover is able to “fix” nitrogen from the air with the help of bacteria
that live in nodules on the plant roots. European colonists who
recognized its value as a pasture plant brought it to
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Maybe not a weed … white clover, praised by Thomas Jefferson, is making a comeback among organic gardeners who want low maintenance yards. The white flowers are favorites for bees and butterflies. |
In 1793,
Thomas Jefferson wrote to George Washington describing his plan for crop
rotation including “a spontaneous cover of white clover” while the lands
were at rest.
Once
established in
White clover is a low growing perennial with white flowers. It differs from most clovers in that the stems (stolons) grow along the surface of the soil and can form adventitious roots at each node. The roots help the plants spread and develop new plants, and the low growing habit helps them survive in grazing or mowing situations.
Because of its shallow root system white clover does not do well in dry soils. It thrives in fertile, moist, clay soil. The rain and high humidity this summer means you probably have more clover than usual in your lawn.
How can you get rid of it? First, be sure you want to. White clover was once a staple of lawns. Low growing, green through the summer, it provided nitrogen for other grasses. Then widespread use of fertilizers and herbicides in the 1950’s, and people’s insistence on “perfect” lawns changed all that.
Now white clover is making a comeback, particularly among organic gardeners who want a low maintenance lawn.
There are
other reasons to allow white clover in your lawn. The white flowers are
a nectar source for bees and butterflies such as Viceroys and Silver
Blues. White clover is host for Cloudy Wing Skippers and
If you want to discourage clover, the best way is to increase turf density with proper watering, mowing and fertilization. Nitrogen from fertilizers reduces the clover’s nitrogen fixation and increases competition from lawn grasses. Do not fertilize heavily with phosphorus.
The best time for a chemical application for clover control is in the fall. Use a broadleaved herbicide that contain a mixture of 2,4-D and Dicamba or Mecoprop. If you hand-pull the clover, be careful to remove all stolens or new sprouts may increase the infestation.
For more information about white clover in pastures or gardens, call the Extension Office at (434) 263-4035.
By Rosemary Connelly
Does this week’s equinox mark the end of the growing season? No! With a cold frame it is possible to harvest salad greens into December and beyond.
Cold frames are just bottomless boxes, covered with glass. During the day soil under the box is warmed by the sun. During the night the heat is conserved by the box lid and insulated walls. Ancient Romans used to protect winter crops with sheets of mica. During the 17th century Jean-Baptiste de La Quintinie, the king’s gardener, built cold frames at Versailles so that Louis XIV could eat strawberries in January.
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The frames are easy to construct from scrap lumber and caring for the crops can be an activity for the entire family. |
Although ready-made cold frames can be purchased, they are not difficult to make. The necessary building materials may already be available without having to buy them. The sides of the box are usually wooden, but can be brick, concrete or cinder block. Bales of straw make well-insulated walls. The glass lid can be an old storm door, a casement window, a sheet of Plexiglas or even plastic sheeting.
A method for propping open the lid to different heights, depending on the weather conditions, will have to be devised. And it’s helpful to keep a thermometer inside, so you can be sure the temperature never exceeds 80°F or goes below freezing.
Cold frames ideally should be placed against the south side of a building, or wall or fence, so they are sheltered from cold north winds. To capture the maximum amount of sun, the back edge of the frame should be higher than the front and the glass lid should slope down at a 30° angle.
The tricky part of using a cold frame is regulating its temperature. Choose a location close to the house, because it will have to be checked daily. On sunny days the lid needs to be opened or else heat will build up and “cook” your plants. Later in the day the lid needs to be closed to trap the warm air inside. When not at home, it is possible to buy an automatic ventilator that uses a temperature sensitive compressed gas to open and close the lid.
On extra cold nights throw an old blanket over the frame. Burlap sacks filled with leaves also provide emergency insulation.
If growing plants directly in the frame, the soil should be well-drained, cultivated to at least 8” and contain plenty of organic matter. Moisture will be retained in the cold frame, so be careful not to over-water. Water plants early in the day, so the leaves can dry before night-time.
Winter crops that can be planted right now include carrots, spinach, lettuce, baby turnips, parsley and radishes. These crops can withstand a light frost.
For more information about gardening in Nelson County, call the Master Gardeners at the Extension Office in Lovingston at (434) 263-4035.
By Bunyan Fortune
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Nelson County Master Gardener Bunyan Fortune welcomes school groups along with foreign and local visitors to the farm cabin at the Humpback Visitor Center on the Blue Ridge Parkway. The site will hold its Farm Festival on Oct. 15-16 with a variety of craft and demonstration activities. |
A group of Nelson County Master Gardeners, in cooperation with the National Park Service, have spent the summer developing an expanded Early American Farm Program at the Humpback Visitor Center on the Blue Ridge Parkway. The Center is approximately 5.5 miles south of the intersection of Rt. 250 and the Parkway on Afton Mountain.
The “demonstration” farm is typical of local homesteads in this area from 1890 -1940 and contains authentic structures. None of the buildings are original to the farm, but all have been moved to the site from the local area.
Visitors come to the Parkway from all over the world and represent many ethnic groups and races. Along with stateside tourists and Virginia residents, they are surprised to find the farm and its workers when they had thought they’d only see spectacular mountain scenery. Some visitors are awestruck by the changes in agricultural methodology that have occurred in the past 50 years.
A visit to the farm begins at the simple one-room cabin that was once home to nine people. There are no windows and only an open fireplace for cooking, heating and light. Then a walk to the outbuildings follows: the hen house, smokehouse, spring house, barn, the bear-proof hog pen and the garden.
During the summer months the master gardeners tended and explained their project, the typical garden of the era. They grew tobacco, corn, squash, pole beans, peas, beets, tomatoes, turnips, barley, broom corn, flax and sunflowers.
Informal discussions and teaching sessions over the summer months covered: open hearth cooking, flax cultivation, linen making and wreath weaving. Gardening, methods of preserving various vegetables, demonstrations in the use of old tools, and tool making techniques and repair were also covered.
Discussions on modern gardens and their challenges compliment the Visitor Center’s focus on traditional farming practices. (On weekdays an abbreviated program is conducted.)
The farm will hold its annual Farm Festival on October 15-16, starting at 10:00 a.m. The schedule includes crafts demonstrations, games for children, cider making, broom making, old tool exhibits, fall garden plowing with a matched team of Percherons, gardening discussions, live music and an all-round good time. Y’all come!
By Lyl Wray and Bill Hathaway
Groucho Marx reportedly said, “Outside of a dog, a book is man’s best friend. Inside a dog, it’s too dark to read.” Since our days in the garden are growing darker and shorter, now is the time to take stock of the gardener’s silent partners – the books in the home reference library.
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A gardener’s best friend sits among the overflow from his family’s gardening book shelves. The American editor Henry Ward Beecher once wrote, “Where is human nature so weak as in the Bookstore?” |
All Nelson County Master Gardeners have one book in common on their shelves – the 598 page loose-leaf Master Gardener Handbook – A Guide to Gardening in Virginia. The text for MG classes, the book covers topics from basic botany to water quality and contains study guide questions. Revised in 1999 by the Virginia Cooperative Extension, it’s available for reference in all Extension offices
After the MG “bible” however, our local experts take many paths on the “favorite books” question. Nelson County Master Gardener Association president Jack Jensen has a library with books on specific plants as well as volumes that cover general problems. However, both Jensen and MG Ruth Powell rate the 1999 Southern Living Garden Problem Solver (Oxmoor House) as a pick for the home library.
“From the first chapter titled ‘Gardening Down South’ you get the feeling that they understand our climate and soil,” says Jensen. He also likes the American Horticultural Society’s 1999 Plant Propagation (Alan Toogood, editor, DK Publishing).
MG Barbara
Gibb recommends The
Gardner’s Handbook (Peter
McHoy, Barnes & Noble Books, 2002) because
of the color photos and step-by-step instructions. She also admires
Flower Garden Designs
(Penelope Hobhouse, Frances Lincoln Ltd,
London, 1999). Master Gardener Intern Bill Hathaway chooses the
Ortho Home Gardener’s Problem Solver
(Denny Schrock editor, Meredith Books,
Our
gardening book philosophy is best explained as enthusiastic. We own
more than 80 gardening books. We have general books on flower growing,
arranging and drying and more specific volumes on herbs, roses,
mushrooms, daylilies and wild flowers. There are also facsimile
editions of 19th century books, including
The Country Diary of an Edwardian Lady
(Edith Holden, Holt Rhinehart
Winston, 1977) and An Island Garden
(Celia Thaxter, Houghton Mifflin Co.,
1988. But my favorite volume is a collection of essays by probably the
best garden writer this country has ever known.
Henry Mitchell on Gardening
(Houghton Mifflin, 1998) contains the last of the weekly “Earthman”
columns that Mitchell wrote for the
Washington Post during 20 years. With wise and funny
tongue-in-cheek observations about gardening, his columns were often
illustrated with sketches of a friendly terrier in the middle of a
flower bed or pulling a garden cart, (The author’s other passion was
dogs.) Once a student at U.Va., Mitchell
closes an essay on Thomas Jefferson’s gardening activities thusly: “One
of
By Bunyan Fortune
The Cherokee tell us when animals and plants were first made they were told to stay awake and fast for seven days and nights to receive spiritual powers. Most stayed awake the first night, but on the second night, they began to nod off. By the seventh day, only a few were still awake. For their reward, the cedar, laurel, holly, pine, and spruce were allowed to remain green all year. All others were required to go leafless for a period of time.
Another legend holds that the celestial hunters killed the "great bear" on their fall hunt and its blood dripping on the forest leaves turned them red. When the bear was cooked, its fat splattered on other leaves, turning them yellow.
Chlorophyll, the compound most responsible for the production of food, gives plants their green color. It receives sunlight and creates the sugars and starches needed by the tree. When the weather cools and days get shorter, chlorophyll production drops, and the red and yellow compounds in the leaves begin to overshadow the green. The amount of pigment in this mixture controls the range of colors.
With Nelson County laying in two climate zones, colors begin to first show on the high mountain ridges and slowly move down to the valleys. Sumacs are the first to change from green to a brilliant red. The dogwoods are next with their various shades of red.
We can enjoy a real mixture of colors during this short season. Yellows are displayed by our dominant tree species, the tulip poplar, plus walnuts, maples, hickory, beech, and in planted landscapes, ginkgoes. Orange foliage is produced by maples, serviceberry, and black gum. Shades of red are made by some maples, dogwoods, beech, sweet gum, oaks and sassafras. These are only a few to enjoy during this season.
The expected display of the colors can be affected by rain, drought, extended heat or sudden frosts, and the general health of the forests. The recent rain has saved the area from a drab show of autumn colors.
Perhaps you once tried to preserve these colors by pressing leaves between two sheets of waxed paper. A better system is to use your microwave oven. It will give you a longer lasting, better-looking memo of the season. Instructions are available at the Nelson County Extension Office, (434) 263-4035.
By Rosemary Connelly
Early fall can be a depressing time for gardeners. Shorter days and cooler temperatures mark the end of the outdoor growing season.
One way to beat the winter blahs is to imagine your home filled with spring flowers. You can enjoy pots of daffodils and tulips in February next year, if you prepare them now.
Most bulbs need a period of chilling during which they form their root system. Then, as temperatures rise, the bulbs develop shoots and flowers. If you plant bulbs in the garden now, they will bloom naturally next March and April. However, if you give them three months of cool (40°F) temperatures and then warm them up indoors they will bloom earlier. This technique is called forcing.
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Mae Critzer (left) shows Emma Hartmann how to plant an amaryllis bulb. Use a small pot that allows barely a finger to fit between the bulb and the side of the pot. Let two-thirds of the bulb sit above the soil or stone level. |
To force tulips, for example, select a variety that is not too tall. Plant 6 or 7 bulbs snugly in a 6” pot. Use a plastic pot if you are going to chill the bulbs outside, because a clay pot might crack. Use good quality potting soil with organic material such as peat moss to hold moisture. The first tulip leaves will come from the flat side of the bulb, so place the bulbs with the flat side towards the side of the pot. That way the early leaves will hang over the edge of the pot in an attractive manner.
Completely cover the bulbs with soil up to within ½” of the rim of the pot. Water the pot well, then place it in a dark, cool spot. This could be in the back of an unheated garage, or under a deck, or even in your refrigerator. The pot should not be allowed to freeze or to dry out, so you may need to protect it with straw or leaves. Some people dig a trench and bury their pots.
Tulips require 14-15 weeks of chilling. If you plant them this week you should be able to bring them indoors in mid February. Within 2 or 3 weeks, the tulips should be blooming.
Other bulbs that can be forced in this manner include daffodils, crocus, hyacinths, iris reticulata, and muscari (grape hyacinth).
Two popular bulbs that do not require a period of chilling are Paper White narcissi and amaryllis. These bulbs can be planted indoors right now, and should be blooming before Christmas. You can plant them in a traditional, light potting mix, or you can grow them on a bed of decorative stones.
To do this you need a container without a drainage hole. Glass containers are attractive. Settle the bulbs on a bed of stones and add a few more stones to stop the bulbs from tipping. Pour water just to the bottom of the bulbs and place them in a warm, sunny location. You will enjoy seeing the roots grow and then the amazing flowers.
For more information about bulbs or other gardening topics, call the Master Gardeners at the Lovingston Extension Office, 263-4035.
By Rosemary Connelly
Help! Why are all these ladybugs invading my house? How can I get rid of them?
This is a
cry you hear all over
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Multicolored Asian Lady Beetles have a white segment with black blotches that form the letter “m” (or “w” depending on your viewpoint) immediately behind the head. Beneficial insects in the garden, they often become pesky visitors when they enter homes to over-winter. |
Believe it or not, these are beneficial insects. Like most ladybugs, they consume huge numbers of pesky aphids, scale and other soft-bodied insects that damage crops and landscape plants. The United States Department of Agriculture had tried many times to introduce ladybugs as a biological control agent. It took a while to get the species established, and now it has become widespread.
In their native Asian habitat, the Multicolored Asian Lady Beetles hibernate in limestone cliffs. It is understandable, therefore, that they might mistake a sunny, light-colored building for a cliff, particularly if it is located near trees.
Lady beetles have some interesting means of protection. Their coloration warns birds that they will not make a very tasty meal. Birds learn that orange and black insects usually sting or taste bad and hence they leave such insects alone. Lady beetles, of course, can't sting, but they probably do taste bad. They also will "play dead" when in danger. Many predators will not eat an insect that doesn't move.
To stop the lady beetles from getting into your house, you should inspect for openings or cracks in the siding, around windows, doors and utility pipes. Caulk wherever necessary. Keep south-facing doors closed and repair torn screens.
If the lady beetles do get in, the use of pesticides in the house is not recommended because large numbers of these insects typically hide in inaccessible areas. Do not use any type of aerosol fogger or “bug bomb”. The active ingredient has limited effectiveness against lady beetles, and humans are unnecessarily exposed to the chemicals.
Do not squash or swat the beetles. It is better to sweep or vacuum them up and dispose of them outside. When lady beetles are disturbed, they defend themselves by exuding a yellow-orange body fluid from joints in their legs. This defense mechanism is called reflex bleeding. The fluid has a foul odor and can stain walls, curtains and carpets.
If you want to capture them and release them next spring, attach a knee-high stocking inside a vacuum cleaner nozzle, securing the end with an elastic band. Vacuum the ladybugs, then empty the stocking into a jar with a perforated lid. Put a damp cloth in the jar, too, to provide some moisture, and store the jar in a cool, protected area such as a detached garage.
For more information about multicolored Asian lady beetles, call the Master Gardeners at the Nelson County Extension Office, (434)263-4035.
By Rosemary Connelly
What would the holiday season be like without a Christmas tree twinkling with lights and sparkling ornaments? For those who enjoy the look and fragrance of a real tree, here are some hints for selecting and caring for that tree.
First you have to decide if you want a cut tree or a living tree that can be planted in your yard after the holidays.
Cut trees can be purchased from retail locations, or you can cut your own. See www.NelsonCounty.com/visit/Christmastrees for a list of Christmas tree farms in Nelson County. Also the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services has a Christmas tree source list at www.vdacs.virginia.gov/trees.
The benefit of buying a local tree is that it is likely to be fresher than an imported one. A fresh tree will keep its needles longer and be less of a fire hazard. To check for freshness, look carefully at the color of the tree. Pull on some needles. Check to be sure the needles are flexible, moist, even sticky and fragrant when crushed. Bang the tree, gently, on the ground to make sure the green, outer needles do not fall. (Don’t worry about older, brown needles in the center of the tree.)
