2006 Newspaper Articles

January 19   Surfing the Web

February 2    Groundhogs

February 16  Hellebores

March 2   Dahlias

March 16  Bluebirds

March 30  Hostas

April 13  Pruning

April 27  Companion Planting

May 11  Asparagus

June 1  Landscape Design

June 15   Coleus

June 29  Rain barrels

July 13  Help Desk

August 3  Humpback Rocks

August 17  Japanese Beetles

September 7  Planning Bulb Garden

 

Surfing the Web for Gardening Help

By Tim White

 

Gardening and surfing the internet may seem like activities at opposite ends of the spectrum, but they are more related than you might think.  As the cold of winter arrives and puts the garden to sleep for the next few months, gardeners can put their tools in the tool shed and set their hands to garden planning and information gathering on the internet.

 

Whether you are an experienced and confident garden pro, or a beginner considering a vegetable or flower garden for the first time, the internet puts information at your fingertips to suit your skill level and interest.  As you begin to visit websites, keep in mind these helpful tips:

 

• Unless you are visiting a site that is Virginia specific, Virginia Cooperative Extension for example, www.ext.vt.edu, you may need to adapt gardening advice you find to suit your local conditions.  First and last frost dates, planting and harvest dates, plant recommendations are all highly variable by region and gardeners will need to adjust their activities to match their local conditions.

 

• All websites are not created equal.  There are many amateur sites offering advice and observations that may or may not be correct.  If you find advice that is of use to you, but you are unsure of the reliability of the source website, double-check the gardening subject on a website with established credibility.  State extension service websites, such as the Virginia Cooperative Extension site listed above, offer reliable and tested advice.

 

• Finally, gardening is as much an art as it is a science.  There are many different ways to achieve a bountiful harvest, an overflowing flower garden or a healthy green lawn.  You will likely find a variety of different approaches on websites for tackling the same gardening issue.  Choose the approach that best fits your situation and remember that you always have your local county extension office to call on for further advice or confirmation.

 

Here is a sampling of some websites that you may want to visit as you wait for the spring thaw:

 

• www.explore.cornell.edu  - select Home Gardening.  This is an excellent general purpose website on gardening.

• www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies - a website specific to vegetable growing, with specific information on a variety of the most widely grown vegetable crops.

• www.organicgardening.com – the website of Organic Gardening magazine with substantial information on organic production techniques that can be implemented by the home gardener.

• www.gardenweb.com-  a wide ranging website that includes a forum with discussion groups on a large number of gardening topics.  Visitors can post questions on garden-related topics, or share their own expertise by answering questions posted by gardeners from across the U.S.

 

Groundhog Control

By Rosemary Connelly

 

How much wood would a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood? A silly question for Groundhog Day? Not at all, because woodchucks and groundhogs are one and the same animal (Marmota monax). These stocky members of the squirrel family are also called whistle-pigs because of the shrill sound they can raise when alarmed.

 

Groundhogs are a common sight in Nelson County fields, along roadsides, and even around building foundations. They build extensive underground burrows that, when abandoned, can harbor skunks, rabbits, snakes and other animals. They are a pest to farmers not only for damaging crops, but because horses and cattle can break their legs by stumbling into a burrow. They are a pest to the gardener because they raid vegetable and flower gardens. And they can be an expensive pest to the home owner if they tunnel under foundations, or gnaw on wooden structures.

 

Many people enjoy seeing groundhogs at a distance because they are one of the few remaining large wild mammals that can be observed during the day. However, if they are destroying your property you may need to control them. Some suggestions include:

 

1. Discouraging groundhogs by removing protective foliage.

2. Frightening groundhogs away from the garden with motion devices.

3. Discouraging groundhogs with repellent smells or tastes.

4. Fencing groundhogs out of the garden.

5. Fumigating the groundhogs' burrows.

6. Live-trapping groundhogs as they exit their burrows.

 

Groundhogs are timid animals that like to be close to a hiding place. Removing brush piles, tall grass, and heavy landscaping next to your property may be the best way to discourage them. Keeping a dog or installing pinwheels can also frighten them. Use of foul-tasting or foul-smelling products is only a temporary solution because applications have to be repeated after rain.

 

Groundhogs are excellent diggers and climbers. Fences should be at least two feet high, preferably with an electric wire along the top. A portion of the fence should be bent at 90 degrees about a foot below ground with the bottom of the fence pointing away from the garden.

 

Groundhogs hibernate underground in winter. In early spring they mate and produce litters of 4-8 young. By early July, young groundhogs leave the burrow to fend for themselves. Early spring is therefore the best time to trap them, before they breed and when lack of foliage makes it easier to find the burrow entrances. Usually the burrow has is a main entrance, about 10 to 12 inches in diameter, with a pile of excavated earth alongside. Side entrances are dug from inside, so they are harder to find. It is illegal in Virginia to relocate nuisance wild animals, so trapped animals must be destroyed humanely.

 

For more information about controlling groundhogs, call the Virginia Cooperative Extension office in Lovingston, (434) 263-4035.

 

Meanwhile, enjoy Groundhog Day as a day of transition. We are now half way between the winter solstice and the spring equinox. Whether Punxsutawney Phil saw his shadow or not this morning, good weather WILL arrive sometime. It always has!

 

Hellebores—Ancient Treasures for Modern Gardens

By Lillian B. Wray 

One of the most exciting things about buying an old house in the fall is waiting expectantly for spring to see what long-ago residents planted in the beds and along the paths of the area that you now call home.  We were lucky and didn’t have to wait for warm-weather tulips and daffodils; our first perennials surprised us in February, but we had no idea what they were!

Graceful flowers in shades of cream, green and purple-pink nodded and dangled on sturdy stems in clumps surrounded by leathery dark green leaves. A helpful neighbor easily identified the mystery flowers as Lenten roses, thereby introducing us to what many gardeners consider the finest perennials in cultivation – the hellebores – pronounced hel – leb – bor'– rus.

Our mystery flower, Helleborus orientalis is the showiest of the 15 distinct species in hellebore classification.  Despite the name Lenten rose, it is more closely related to buttercups than to roses.  The hellebore flower consists of five petal-like sepals, a characteristic of the buttercup (Ranunculaceae) family.  The saucer-shaped flowers, two to three inches wide, grow in nodding or out-facing clusters that emerge before the new leaves.

Plants with a past, hellebore roots were reportedly used medicinally – but probably sparingly – as early as the fourth century B.C.  (The practice is definitely a thing of the past, since all hellebores are considered poisonous and should never be ingested.) Native to central and eastern Europe and widely grown in Colonial times, some garden historians suggest that Lenten rose was the first hellebore to be introduced into American horticulture.  Easy to grow, quick to mature, long lived and colorful, H. orientalis is a plant that has been recently “re-discovered” and showered with accolades such as the 2005 “Perennial Plant of the Year” designation of the Perennial Plant Association.

“Must haves” for semi-shade garden spaces, hellebores have a great deal to recommend them.  Very hardy with evergreen foliage, they provide year-round interest in the garden, and will survive the worst weather the Commonwealth can throw at them.  Their only troublesome disease is an easily controlled fungal blackspot.  As an added benefit, deer don’t much care for them.

Lenten roses flourish in the clay soils of our region and will also thrive in sandy areas.  They hate being water-logged and like neutral or slightly limey soil.  They will thrive under the shade of a tree or a large bush and should be mulched with organic matter or fed with bone meal in the fall.  Established clumps of H. orientalis sometimes seed themselves almost to the point of carpeting an area, crowding the mother plants.  They can be divided in late summer or fall, but the process calls for patience because the woody roots are very extensive.

Most hellebores are also great container plants, with the exception of the Lenten rose, again because of the root system.  However Lenten roses can go indoors as delightfully unusual cut flowers if you sear the stem ends with a candle before placing them in water.  Then be ready for the inevitable question – “What is that pretty flower?”

For more information on gardening subjects, call the Virginia Cooperative Extension office in Lovingston, (434) 263-4035.

Put Dazzle in Your Garden with Dahlias

By Ruth Powell

Have you ever admired the brilliant-colored dinner plate sized flowers at the local farmer’s markets in late summer?  Those beauties are dahlias and with a little planning they can be standouts in your garden this year.

Reportedly discovered in Mexico in the 16^th century, dahlias come in a variety of wonderful colors and sizes.  They range from small two-inch bedding plants grown from seed to spectacular tall plants grown from tubers with flowers that are 10 to 12 inches in diameter.  

While the big beauties are not maintenance free, they reward the gardener with a spectacular last hurrah of color in the late summer garden.

The dahlia, Bert Pitt, is a super garden and cut flower. Stunning 6 to 8 inch blooms cover this 4 foot tall plant. This variety has been around for over 30 years.

Pull out your catalogs or visit your garden center now for the best selection of tubers and begin to plan your garden. You’ll want a sunny location or a good western exposure with at least a half day of sun.  Dahlias need light, well drained soil with a PH of 6.5 to 7.0.  If you add a slow-release fertilizer, be certain that it’s low in nitrogen.

Plant your tubers after all chance of frost has passed, and when the soil has dried out.  The pros plant their dahlia tubers and the sturdy stakes that will support them at the same time.  (Be certain your stakes are tall enough for the variety of dahlia you’ve chosen.)  For each tuber, scoop out a hole six to eight inches deep and then sink the stake into the soil a few inches away.  Press in the tuber and cover with two or three inches of soil.  (You’ll add more soil to fill the hole as the tuber grows.) Leave 18 to 24 inches between the tubers because the plants need air circulation and you need space to work. Add about two inches of mulch around each plant to keep the soil moist.  

Your dahlias should bloom in 90 to 120 days, so plan early to support the thick stems and huge flowers. When a stem is about 10 inches tall, tie it to its stake, making a figure eight with the cord.  Don’t tie too tight.  As the plant continues to grow, add ties every 18 inches to help stabilize the stalk.

As the stalks grow and leaves form, remove the small suckers growing between the main leaf and stalk.  As buds form, you can deadhead and leave only one or two buds, allowing the plant’s energy to go to a few flowers. As you cut each flower, the plant will continue to produce until frost.

Dig and store the tubers after the first killing frost.  Cut away foliage, wash away dirt, take them inside and let them dry for a few days.  Your tubers will winter-over nicely in zip-lock bags filled with peat moss.  Early in the spring you can pot up the tubers to give them an early start before transplanting them outside.  Then the cycle of the dazzling dahlias begins again!

For more information on garden planning, call the Virginia Cooperative Extension office in Lovingston, (434) 263-4035.

Eastern Bluebirds are in the area

By Milly Colella

Spring is the time to welcome bluebirds into your yard, farm, or golf course. As a matter of fact our bluebird friends have been here all year. Have you noticed? Nelson County has countless airborne beauties with sky blue plumage.

Not for Rent! A family of bluebirds enjoy a nesting box. The entry hole points away from the prevailing wind.

There are three species of bluebirds in the United States; our own eastern bluebird, the mountain bluebird and the western bluebird, all of which are good-natured and friendly. They are cavity nesters and their diet consists of insects, worms and berries. (Their favorite food is the mealworm which is full of protein and is a special treat.)

Bluebirds were one of the most popular song birds in the vast orchards and woodlots of Virginia in the early 1900’s. Over the years bluebirds have declined, however.  Today, they are making a fantastic comeback due to conservation efforts and those of us who actively help by installing and monitoring bluebird nesting boxes.

As spring approaches the male bluebird searches for a nesting site. When he finds an appropriate cavity he shows it to his mate, and if she accepts it, she builds her nest there. It takes about two days for the female to finish the nest. Then she will lay three to five blue eggs, one a day, usually in the early morning. Incubation takes twelve to fourteen days and during that time the male bluebird assists in feeding the female. When the chicks hatch, both parents feed them until they are ready to fledge in sixteen to twenty days. Bluebirds can have between one and three broods during the season which lasts from April 1 to August 31.

You can help the bluebirds propagate by installing a nesting box which can be purchased at any store with a wild bird department. The boxes should have side openings and should be mounted on a pole four to five feet above the ground. (Never attach the box to a tree because of predators.) Placement should be near a shrub or tree with low branches so the adult bluebird can perch to search for insects. Face the box toward the east or southeast with the entrance hole pointing away from the prevailing wind. Monitor the box weekly in order to avoid house sparrows which attack and destroy both nest and birds.

If you are interested in obtaining more information about bluebirds, there are many books available. I highly recommend The Bluebird Book by Don and Lillian Stokes, and The Bluebird Monitor’s Guide by Cynthia Berger, Keith Kridler and Jack Griggs. The Virginia Bluebird Society has a web site (www.virginiabluebirds.org) where you can acquire more information. Volunteers are also welcome to monitor existing trails in the Rockfish Valley. Please feel free to contact Milly Colella, Nelson County Virginia Bluebird Society Coordinator, at rolmil1@msn.com.

For more information about bluebirds and other gardening topics, contact the Master Gardeners at the Nelson County Extension Office, (434) 263-4035.

Hostas – Bold and Beautiful in the Shade

by Ruth Hartzell

The days are getting longer and the sounds of spring have returned to invite us outside to look for signs that the earth is once again waking up. We look for the color of flowers such as daffodils, crocus, hyacinths and tulips. Look, also for the buds of hostas, one of the most easily grown and versatile perennials in the garden.

Ranging in size from several inches to four feet high and wide, hostas work well as borders, focal points, or foundation plantings in the shade garden. The plant produces tall purple, lilac or white flowers that bloom briefly in the summer, but the real charm of the hosta lies in the lush foliage. The handsome leaves come in a range of greens from light yellow green through a dusky blue green with variegated edges which range from gold to nearly white. Leaves often have a rich texture of delicately twisted or pronounced ribs and remain tidy in the garden for the entire season, dying back to the ground at the first frost.

The hosta “Patriot” has excellent sun tolerance and features dark green leaves with pure white margins. It is medium in size and is a favorite of gardeners.

Hostas like shade to semi-shade or light sun, with good drainage and loose, humus-rich soil. As a general rule, the darker green and blue-green plants do best in dense shade while the yellow-green ones like more sun. Care is easy: scratch in about a tablespoon of 5-10-5 around each plant each spring, remove spent blooms and collect the dead foliage after frost. Water deeply once a week during dry seasons. Hostas can be left undisturbed for many years.

The only pests that bother hostas are snails or slugs, but even they do not seem to bother the larger, more mature plants. If slugs are a problem, you can sprinkle sharp particles of diatomaceous earth around your plants. I had success using ground-up egg shells until the cedar waxwings discovered this treat. Many gardeners also use beer traps. Sink a saucer of beer in the ground near the plants and the slugs will drown when they go in for a sip.

Hostas can be purchased from mail order catalogues and usually arrive as bareroot plants. When purchased from local nurseries, they are usually potted. Prepare the soil by digging about one foot deep and mixing in organic material such as peat moss or compost. Plant bareroot plants with the crown about two inches below the soil surface and potted plants at the same level as the soil in which they are growing. Firm the soil around the roots and water thoroughly.

Hostas can be easily increased by division in spring or fall. Simply dig up and separate the clumps, leaving sufficient roots on each clump. Replant and enjoy full-size hostas within a few years. In two years I have increased one hosta to fourteen plants!

Choose your hostas from over 700 named varieties. Some favorites include: “Sum and Substance”, a very large yellow green hosta, 2004 hosta of the year;  “Patriot”, a dark green plant with striking white edges, 1997 hosta of the year;  and “Blue Giant”, a long time favorite with huge deeply textured blue-green leaves.

For more information about hostas and other gardening topics, contact the Master Gardeners at the Nelson County Extension Office, (434) 263-4035.

Pruning with Purpose

by Lynne Carson

 

Sooner or later every gardener is faced with the need to prune. There are a number of solid reasons to prune your plants and they include: maintaining the health of the plant, preventing injury or property damage, controlling the size of the plant, training the plant for special effects and improving the quality of the flowers or fruit.

 

Tools for pruning jobs include pruning shears, lopping shears, pruning saws as well as pole pruners and hedge shears.  All have specialized uses and should be tested to be sure they are not too heavy or too hard to squeeze. 

 

It is well worth the extra money to purchase quality pruning tools and it is essential to keep them in good shape.  Sharpen them regularly and always disinfect the tool blades with alcohol, “Lysol” or “Listerine” after cutting plant material.  Store your tools in a dry place and keep a thin coat of oil on the blade surface.

 

Pruning for plant health involves eliminating dead, dying or diseased wood. Avoid pruning in wet weather as this can easily spread disease. Dispose of any diseased wood immediately. Cutting out branches that rub against one another, cutting off suckers and water sprouts and thinning the middle of the plant or shrub to an open pattern lets light and air get to the interior of the plant and can help prevent future problems.

Forsythia should be pruned after flowering by removing one-quarter to one-third of the oldest canes. Cut them back to within four inches of the ground.

 

Always cut back to a vigorous bud or intersecting branch when pruning. Be sure not to cut too close to the bud or to leave a stub over the bud. Branches should be removed outside the branch collar (the swollen area of trunk tissue at the base of a branch) to avoid opening plant tissue to disease or decay. 

 

Pruning to control the size of a plant is usually a last resort. Always consider what the mature size of a plant will be when planning your landscape. The proper choice of plants can save you work later. When it is necessary to curb a plant’s growth or to rejuvenate an older plant, remove the growth gradually.

 

The first year cut off one third of the oldest branches. The next year remove half of the remaining old stems. Finally, remove the remainder of the old branches the third year. This method results in a “continuing maintenance” system of pruning and retains the natural beauty of the plant shape. Shearing off the tops of shrubs or trees at one height results in a lollipop shape with too many crossed branches and leaves the branches on the outside with sparse blooms.

 

Most pruning is done during the dormant season, preferably just before active growth begins in the spring. However, be sure to consider whether the plant you are pruning blooms or bears fruit on new or old growth. Spring flowering shrubs such as forsythia and honeysuckle bloom on last season’s growth and should be pruned shortly after they bloom. This allows for vigorous growth during the summer months. (Fruits such as brambles also bear fruit on last year’s growth.) For plants which bloom on the current season’s growth, such as butterfly bush and crape myrtle, pruning is best done in late winter.

 

For more information about pruning specific types of plants contact the Nelson County Extension Office at (434) 263-4035.

 

Companion Vegetable Planting with Herbs

By Carolyn Stone, Master Gardener Intern

 

Companion planting can be described as growing two or more different kinds of plants close together so that some benefit is derived.  The benefits can include:

While "Companion Planting" probably began with Mother Nature, you can carry on the ancient herb/vegetable concept in your garden. Raised bed garden spots are always a good place to start.

•    repelling pests

•    attracting beneficial insects and providing shelter for them

•    adding nutrients to the soil and reducing the need to add fertilizers

•    improving soil compaction

•    providing shade or mulch for plants

•    combining more than one crop in a given area so that garden space is used efficiently

•    enhancing the beauty of the garden with plant combinations

Companion planting is not a new concept.  For centuries, Native American tribes cultivated corn, beans and squash together.  This was known as the Three Sisters Garden.  Although the tribes did not know the scientific basis for what they were doing, they knew that these crops thrived together.  The corn provided a structure for the beans to climb.  The beans replenished the soil with usable nitrogen (corn is a heavy feeder) and other nutrients, while the leaves of the squash plants provided a living mulch that helped conserve water and provided weed control.

 

The idea of companion planting with herbs was all the rage a number of years ago and some gardeners still employ the practice. It makes good sense. Since most herbs are aromatic, their essences attract or repel insects, both beneficial and pests. The classic companion pairing of tomatoes with basil sets the standard.  Basil repels flies and mosquitoes and improves the growth and flavor of tomatoes. And how nice to have them growing together, easy to pick and so terrific later on the dinner plate!

 

Below is a chart of the more common herbs and their affect on vegetable garden companions:

 

Herb	Companion and Effect
Basil (Annual)	Companion to tomatoes and peppers; Improves growth and flavor. Repels flies and mosquitoes.  Also plant near your door or patio.
Bee Balm or Monarda (Perennial)	Companion to tomatoes; Improves growth and flavor. Attracts beneficial insects.  Plant near crops that require bees for pollination but be aware that it is invasive and susceptible to powdery mildew.  Plant it pots to control its spread.
Catnip (Perennial)	Plant in borders; Deters flea beetles, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants, weevils and mice.  Plant it pots to control its spread.  Of course, it does attract cats!
Chamomile (Perennial)	Companion to cabbages and onions. Improves growth and flavor.
Chives (Perennial)	Companion to carrots, tomatoes and apples; deters apple scab. Improves growth and flavor.
Coriander (Cilantro) (Annual)	Repels aphids.
Dill (Annual)	Companion to cabbage. Improves growth and health of cabbage. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree.  However, it does attract tomato hornworm so keep it away from your tomato plants; dislikes carrots.
Fennel (Annual)	Plant away from garden.  Most plants do not like it.
Garlic (Perennial)	Plant near roses and raspberries. Improves growth and flavor and repels aphids.  Deters Japanese beetles, root maggots and carrot root fly.  It accumulates sulfur, a naturally occurring fungicide which helps in disease prevention.
Lemon Balm (Perennial)	Grow throughout the garden.
Lavender (Perennial)	Repels fleas and moths.  Prolific flowering nourishes many beneficial insects.
Lovage (Perennial)	Improves flavor and health of almost all plants with the exception of rhubarb.
Marigolds (Annual)	The workhorse of pest deterrents.  Plant throughout the garden; discourages Mexican bean beetles, nematodes, and other insects.
Mint (Perennial)	Companion plant to cabbage and tomatoes. Improves health and flavor. Deters white cabbage moth.  Plant in pots to control its spread.
Marjoram (Annual)	Plant here and there in garden. Improves flavors.  Known as one of the Physician plants.  Grown near a sick plant, it helps it recover.
Oregano (Perennial)	One of the Physicians plants.  Grown near a sick plant, it helps it recover.
Peppermint (Perennial)	Plant among cabbages. Deters white cabbage butterfly.
Rosemary (Perennial)	Companion to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moth, bean beetles and carrot fly.
Sage (Perennial)	Plant with rosemary, cabbage and carrots; keep away from cucumbers.  Deters cabbage moth and carrot fly.
Summer savory (Annual)	Plant with beans and onions. Improves growth and flavor and deters bean beetles.
Tarragon (Tender Perennial)	Good throughout garden.
Thyme (Perennial)	Plant here and there in garden.  Deters cabbage worm.  One of the Physician plants.  Grown near a sick plant, it helps it recover.
Yarrow (Perennial)	Plant along borders, paths, near aromatic herbs. Enhances essential oil production.  One of the Physician plants.  Grown near a sick plant, it helps it recover.

Be adventurous and try one or more of these combinations in your garden this year.  See the Nelson County Master Gardener website at www.nelsonmastergardeners.org, under the 2006 Newspaper Articles section for additional combinations. For more information on herbs or gardening questions, contact the Nelson County Extension Office, (434) 263-4035.

Welcome Spring with the Season’s First Harvest: Asparagus

By Ruth Hartzell

 

The first time I visited the Nellysford Farmers Market, on the first Saturday in May 2005, I found asparagus spears picked early that morning.  I bought a bundle, took it home and cooked the spears that day.  Ummm – mild flavored crisp asparagus had never tasted so good.  Store asparagus may be less expensive, but if you treat yourself to very fresh asparagus you may find yourself doing what I did ... I decided to grow my own. This is not difficult, but preparing the bed carefully is essential. However, your hard work will be rewarded, as asparagus is a perennial that can live 12 to 15 years or longer.

 

A feast worth waiting a few years for – fresh asparagus from your garden! This perennial plant can continue to produce for 12 to 15 years.

Asparagus is usually raised from bundles of root crowns planted in long deep trenches.  Bundles can be ordered from catalogues or purchased from your local nurseryman.  Plants labeled “all-male” such as “Jersey Giant” are bred to produce larger spears because they do not have to put energy into seed production.   

 

Asparagus plants like full sun and a soil ph of at least 7.0.  Soil tests can be arranged through your county extension office.  Acid soil can be amended with the addition of lime.  Soil should be well tilled and light.  Dig planting trenches about ten inches deep and ten inches to a foot wide, with four to five feet between trenches. Add two inches of compost to the bottom of the trench.   Mound the soil in the center of the trench to a depth of eight inches.  Center the asparagus crowns over the soil mound and spread the roots out, keeping them about 15 to 18 inches apart. Cover with two inches of top soil.  As the plants grow, add another two inches of soil until the trenches are at the same level as the garden.

 

Be patient. Asparagus requires three years after planting for a full harvest. The first season, the young plants should be left to grow.  The second year, a few stalks can be taken over a few weeks, however if you resist taking stalks the second season, the third year will result in a more asparagus over a longer period of time.  Remember Year one, take none.  Year two, cut a few.  Year three, lots for me.  When harvesting, cut five to eight inch long spears for eight to ten weeks and then let the spears grow.  They will form  pretty fern-like growth which should not be cut down until after the first frost.

 

On-going maintenance is not difficult; cover the bed with a light mulch of pine needles, grass clippings, or finely shredded paper – heavy mulches may prevent spears from emerging properly.  If you need to weed, do it by hand early in the season to prevent damaging the spears.  Few pests bother asparagus, and asparagus beetles can be picked off by hand if they are a problem. By cutting down the foliage and removing it from the area, problems will be minimized.

 

However you prefer your asparagus: raw, steamed and drenched in butter and lemon juice, roasted, or grilled, this early season vegetable is a real treat and is rich in vitamins, calcium and iron too.

 

For more information about growing asparagus, contact the Master Gardeners at the Nelson County Extension Office, (434) 263-4035.

 

Putting Landscape Design into Practice

By Rosemary Connelly 

 

Connie Evans and her son Robbie recently welcomed a crew of Master Gardener Volunteers to their new Habitat for Humanity home in Arrington, but it wasn’t for a house tour. Mother and son worked outside for hours alongside the gardeners, planting their new landscape.

 

Master Gardener Nancy Welker and her committee met several times with Ms. Evans prior to planting day, discovering what plants the family enjoyed, and assessing the site. For example, they discussed how the sun moved in order to determine which areas of the garden would bear the brunt of the afternoon sun. And they observed how the land was graded in order to anticipate damp spots in the garden.

 

Nancy drew a map of the house and yard, showing the location of the drain field and underground utility lines. Then she and Connie started adding circles to represent possible trees and shrubs. They went through several different designs until they arrived at a plan they liked.

 

Nancy was well aware of Nelson County’s heavy clay soil, and she also knew the earth around the house had been compacted by construction equipment. She explained to Connie the importance of mixing organic matter into the soil before planting, to both lighten the soil and make it easier for the roots to grow.

 

Greif Brothers had generously donated a truck load of compost. This “black gold” not only adds organic matter to the soil, but allows air and water into the root zone. As each hole was dug, compost was mixed in with the native clay.

 

Thanks to the generosity of Saunders Brothers, (a long-time supporter of Habitat for Humanity), Master Gardeners were able to select several beautiful trees and shrubs for the project. Alberta spruces were planted at two corners of the house, and lavender and rose azaleas line the walk leading to the front door.

 

Robbie Evans watched as the volunteers maneuvered a large Bradford pear tree into its hole. They gently pressed soil around the root ball and left a circular ridge of soil 18” from the trunk to collect and hold water. Robbie then ran for a bucket and carefully watered the new tree.

 

Nancy Welker and her husband, Phil supplied several shrubs, including four handsome boxwoods that Phil had propagated ten years ago. Other plants came from other Master Gardener gardens.

 

The Master Gardeners carefully spaced the plants far enough apart to anticipate future growth. Along the front boundary of the garden, they planted a hedge with alternating forsythia and potentilla shrubs. It will take some for the plants to knit together, but the results will be worth the wait. And at one corner of the Evans' back yard several clumps of ornamental grasses were planted in a group to form a screen. This will make a bolder statement than if they had been just dotted throughout the yard.

 

As the weary gardeners collected their tools, they wished the Evans’s joy in their new house, and reminded Robbie not to forget to water!

 

For more information about landscape design, call the Master Gardeners at the Extension Office, (434) 263-4046.

 

Plant Coleus for Year-Round Color

by Ruth Powell

 

Versatile annuals offer the gardener an opportunity to experiment with color and texture in the garden. The Coleus, popular even in Victorian times, is one of the most dramatic and colorful annuals that you will find. 

 

Coleus is native to Java in Southeast Asia and is a member of the mint family.  The common name is "Painted Nettle" or "Rainbow" plant.  There are over 150 different varieties of Coleus ranging in color from shades of green, yellow, red, maroon, to pink, orange and chartreuse.  The leaves are multi-colored, giving the plant its unique and striking features.

 

Coleus grows rapidly and can be germinated from seeds and planted outdoors after the last frost.  Although it is easy to grow, it is very delicate and is killed by the first frost.  Depending on the variety, Coleus can grow up to 24 inches in height and width, with the sprawling variety suitable for hanging baskets.  Coleus can be used in the garden for borders, bedding, and edging, or in containers. It thrives in rich, loose, well drained soil, and prefers to be fed with 20-20-20 fertilizer.  For container gardening, water often as the plants tend to dry out quickly.  For garden beds, the soaker hose works well, however, do not over water.  Water just before your Coleus begins to wilt.

 

 With 150 varieties, there are many possibilities for size, sun tolerance, and color.  Some varieties such as Alabama Sunset and Pat Martin are full sun tolerant, while Dark Star and Black Magic prefer part to full shade.  The more red pigment in the leaves, the more sun tolerant the plant is.

 

There are different leaf varieties as well, with some plants having ruffled edges, saw-toothed or jagged edges and others sporting wavy leaves.  Plum Parfait has purplish plum colored ruffled leaves; Burgundy Sun has heart shaped leaves, while the Red Ruffles variety has wavy leaves.  These shapes add focus, texture and interest.

 

Many varieties will flower, producing small white or blue flowers in late summer.  To extend growth and maintain the appearance of the plant, snip off the flowers.  Coleus can also be pruned to encourage dense growth and bushiness.

 

Snails and slugs find Coleus tasty, leaving irregular holes in the foliage and tell-tale slimy silvery trails. Controls include diatomaceous earth, lime or ashes around the plant and removal of hiding spots such as boards or rocks.

 

Coleus is also wonderful indoors.  Before the first frost, take three to four inch clippings from your outdoor plant and put them in water to root.  Transplant them into an appropriate container, and locate it in the sunniest spot in your home.  Even if the Coleus variety prefers partial shade, the brightest light in your home is almost always darker than a partially shaded area outside.  The brilliant color of Coleus will add warmth and life to any room.  When the weather is above 55 degrees, and all chances of frost have passed, transplant your indoor Coleus plant back outside, so it can continue to give you year-round brilliant color and enjoyment.

 

For more information about Coleus and other gardening topics, contact the Master Gardeners at the Nelson County Extension Office, (434) 263-4035.

 

 

Tilling Back in Time

by Lyl Wray

 

Bunyan Fortune and seven other Master Gardener volunteers have been gardening in another century this summer. Their “family” plot is part of the National Park Service’s Humpback Rock Early American Farm Center on the Blue Ridge Parkway. While the Center is only 5.8 miles south of the Afton Mountain intersection of Rt. 250 and the Parkway, visitors to the site say they feel like they’ve stepped into a time warp.

Nelson County Master Gardener Bunyan Fortune is one of a team of volunteers helping to keep traditional farming practices alive at the Humpback Early American Farm.

 

Welcome to 1900 – the year “The Wonderful Wizard of Oz” was published and the Western League of baseball clubs became the American League.  Welcome to the Humpback “demonstration” farm, typical of homesteads found in the Nelson County area c. 1900 and containing authentic structures moved to the site from the local region.

 

Bunyan Fortune and the Master Gardeners are tending garden plots which homesteaders would recognize. The large family garden contains corn, peppers, pole and bush beans, tomatoes, beets, rhubarb, tobacco, squash and onions. While the farmers of 1900 had no timed irrigation systems or slow-release fertilizers, they also had no herds of deer devouring their crops.

 

Fortune is quick to point out that deer were scarce in this rugged area 100 years ago. Bears and wolves whittled down the herds and deer that grazed near a homestead were shot for supper. But because of deer depredations, he has planted and re-planted this summer, and now uses bare spots in the garden to illustrate the difference in the deer populations then and now.

 

He laments the loss of the field corn because it was the staple crop of the area: food for both cattle and the farmers who turned it into hominy and grits. (Fortune has to remind visitors that the sugar corn we eat today is a very different vegetable.) But much of the hand-tilled garden is a success with rhubarb leaves “as big as the top of a barrel...” and strong tobacco plants.

 

The smaller gardens near the one-room cabin have fared well this season, says Master Gardener Patricia Bailey. She and volunteers Shirley Wilson and Kathryn Skinner enlarged the kitchen herb garden and added a new garden with “medicinal” plants, which include: parsley, rue, sage, thyme, mint, cat mint, lavender, tansy (an effective insect repellent) and clary sage, long used to clear the eyes of foreign matter. They are now preparing an herb brochure for visitors.

 

The Master Gardeners and other volunteers greet hundreds of stateside tourists and international visitors every week-end. Bunyan Fortune often brings in special exhibits of antique farming and logging tools, such as two-prong pitchforks, felling saws, hay saws and various axes. He also displays a kitchen collection: 12 rolling pins, eight meat cleavers and 10 filled exhibit jars that he calls the “corn display.” The jars feature yellow and white field corn and various “food” items made from the corn; hominy, coarse, medium, regular and soft grits along with corn “likker.”

 

Modern day gardeners and fans of the simple life are welcome daily at the Humpback Farm. The annual Farm Festival will be held in October and other special events are planned. Call the Nelson County Extension Office 263-4035 for information.

 

Battling Japanese Beetles

By Rosemary Connelly

 

Another summer of Japanese beetles! Skeletonized leaves on my sassafras trees... neighbors bemoaning damage to roses and hibiscus. What’s a gardener to do? The answers are complex.

 

Japanese beetles were detected in New Jersey in 1916. Since then they have spread down the eastern seaboard. With no natural predators, desperate homeowners automatically reach for traps and chemicals. But the reality is that total beetle eradication is just not possible at this time.

 

Adult Japanese beetles emerge from the ground in June. Early arrivals emit an aggregation pheromone (smell) to attract additional adults. In addition, females emit a sexual pheromone to attract mates. When a beetle finds a tasty plant or a lot of other beetles, you can be sure that more will follow – sometimes from as far as three miles away!

 

Beetle traps are designed to emit smells similar to pheromones so put them far away from the plants you need to protect. The traps do such a good job of attracting beetles, however, that despite the large number that are killed, you could still have a large population devouring your ornamentals.

 

Some gardeners attack the problem by hand. Check your plants early in the morning, when temperatures are low and the beetles sluggish. Carry a bucket of soapy water and shake the early scouts into the water. Another way to discourage Japanese beetles is to select plants they don’t like. Call the Extension Office for a list of those plants.

 

An alternative way of dealing with the pests is to interrupt their life cycle by killing the grubs or larvae with a treatment called milky spore.

 

The life cycle of a Japanese beetle goes like this: The adult beetles feed and mate during the summer months of July and August. The females lay eggs two to four inches deep and these hatch within two or three weeks. The little grubs (larvae) dig their way to the surface and feed on roots and other organic matter. They go through three instars (molts), getting bigger each time and burrowing deeper into the earth as winter approaches.

 

The following spring, the grubs move back to the surface. (If there is a large grub population in your lawn, you will notice the grass browning out.) In April the grubs pupate one to three inches below the soil level and emerge in June as beetles. Then the cycle starts again.

 

However, when a grub eats the spores (bacillus popilliae), the spores multiply inside the grub and kill it. The decaying body releases billions of spores which in turn infect other grubs. Once the spores are in the soil, they can control grubs for years.

 

Milky spore is now available commercially as a powder or in a granular form.

It is harmless to food crops and wildlife and can be used around pools and wells. A beneficial side effect may be the reduction of moles that depend on grubs for food. However, milky spore is relatively expensive and takes at least a year to become effective. It’s an insurance program for next year, but it works better if your neighbors use it too.

 

More help is on the way from the scientific community. Testing with predatory wasps has been successful, although the wasps have not been released for commercial sale and research continues on habitat requirements. We’ll all cross our fingers.

 

For more information about garden pests, call the Master Gardeners at the Extension Office, (434) 263-4035.

 

Planning a Commemorative Bulb Garden

By Rosemary Connelly

These fresh, cool mornings remind us that the oppressive heat will soon be over. It’s time to be thinking of fall garden chores. Although it’s too early to be planting bulbs, it’s not too early to be planning next spring’s bulb display.

 

In 1607 the first English settlers landed on our Virginia shores. Next year, 2007, we shall be celebrating the four hundredth anniversary of that Jamestown Settlement. Co-incidentally, it will also be the two hundredth anniversary of Nelson County.

 

What better way to celebrate these anniversaries than by adopting a patriotic red, white and blue garden theme? Imagine a flower bed with red tulips, white daffodils and blue hyacinth! Or a container with small red tulips, white grape hyacinth and blue Glory of the Snow. And those are just a few possibilities.

 

If local garden centers have a limited selection of bulbs, you might consider exploring mail order outlets, or web sites, that offer a wider variety of good-sized, healthy bulbs. Bulb catalogs are usually organized by bloom-time‑early, mid, and late. This will help you to select bulb varieties that will bloom at the same time and produce maximum impact.

 

If you purchase bulbs early, store them in a cool, dry area (less than 65F). The best time to plant spring bulbs in Nelson County will be in October and November, when soil temperatures have dropped to below 60F.

 

Most bulbs need a well-drained site, with at least six hours of sun. Tulips, hyacinth and late daffodils may need even more sun. Most bulbs will perennialize in the garden, which means they will come back year after year. Bulbs planted in containers, however, do not have sufficient nutrients to sustain them for subsequent years, and should be recycled to the garden.

 

A useful rule of thumb is to plant bulbs three times as deep as their height. This means large tulips should be planted about 8-10”deep, and small grape hyacinth about 2-3”. For the best effect, bulbs should be planted en masse. Plant at least 10-12 of each variety to start with. And don’t plant them in straight rows. A random scattering looks more natural.

 

Healthy bulbs don’t need fertilizer the first year, certainly not in the bottom of the planting hole. There is a danger this can burn the base of the bulbs. However, in subsequent years, bulbs can benefit from a top dressing of fertilizer in the fall.

 

Many gardeners have trouble with pests, particularly voles, that tunnel underground and eat the bulbs. Brent Heath of Brent and Becky’s Bulbs suggests planting bulbs in a raised bed created by layers of sharp gravel and compost.